{"id":80,"date":"2024-02-20T22:59:06","date_gmt":"2024-02-20T21:59:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/?p=80"},"modified":"2024-05-24T18:32:02","modified_gmt":"2024-05-24T16:32:02","slug":"6-zemi-niceho-a-neceho","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/6-zemi-niceho-a-neceho\/","title":{"rendered":"(6) Krajinou ni\u010deho a n\u011b\u010deho"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nebojte, \u017eijeme, akor\u00e1t pond\u011bl\u00ed n\u00e1m zabral p\u0159ejezd z D\u017eiddy do Janb\u00fa, tak si dovol\u00edme pond\u011bl\u00ed a \u00fater\u00fd „odb\u00fdt“ jedn\u00edm p\u0159\u00edsp\u011bvkem.<\/p>\n

Tak tedy pond\u011bl\u00ed. Sbalili jsme se na ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v D\u017eidd\u011b, dotankovali jsme „91, full“, te\u010f se dr\u017ete, benzin 2,17 SAR za litr. Kr\u00e1t \u0161est, to u\u017e v\u00edme. Brali jsme tak dv\u011b t\u0159etiny n\u00e1dr\u017ee za kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch 60 SAR neboli 360 K\u010d. A hur\u00e1 se propl\u00e9st po d\u00e1lnici za m\u011bsto. Okomentuju to u\u017e tradi\u010dn\u00edm „provoz hust\u0161\u00ed, ale OK“.<\/p>\n

Cesta po d\u00e1lnici byla \u00fanavn\u00e1, kolem n\u00ed toti\u017e nen\u00ed absolutn\u011b nic, jede se po\u0159\u00e1d rovn\u011b, provoz relativn\u011b mal\u00fd, radary co kilometr, mo\u017en\u00e1 dva, rychlost omezena na 140 km\/h pro osob\u00e1ky. Hned n\u011bkde za D\u017eiddou n\u00e1m kam\u00ednek rozbil p\u0159edn\u00ed sklo, tak\u017ee drobn\u00e1 komplikace, ale ned\u00e1 se nic d\u011blat. Na sklo se tady nehraje. Zaujalo m\u011b, \u017ee pod\u00e9l skoro cel\u00e9 trasy chodili ukl\u00edze\u010di s pytli a sb\u00edrali odpadky mezi d\u00e1lnici a plotem kolem n\u00ed.<\/p>\n

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\u00dapln\u011b na konci D\u017eiddy jsme si dali p\u0159est\u00e1vku na ob\u011bd. Zastavili jsme na benzince a j\u00e1 zjistil, \u017ee za rohem je n\u011bjak\u00e1 ulice s restauracemi. Jedna zav\u0159en\u00e1, druh\u00e1 tam nebyla asi v\u016fbec, tak jsme zapadli do n\u011bjak\u00e9 jin\u00e9, kter\u00e1 byla p\u00e1r krok\u016f vedle. Uvnit\u0159 mil\u00ed P\u00e1kist\u00e1nci, \u017ee pr\u00fd co si d\u00e1me, \u017ee maj\u00ed ku\u0159e, kozu a r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed a cel\u00e9 menu je jen v arab\u0161tin\u011b. Tak my na to, \u017ee si d\u00e1me ku\u0159e, kozu a r\u00fd\u017ei.<\/p>\n

Nebudu v\u00e1s nap\u00ednat. Byla to ba\u0161ta, samoz\u0159ejm\u011b. P\u00e1lilo to tedy jak \u010dert, co\u017e jsme pak my i oni okomentovali jako „a little bit spicy“. To\u0148a si dala r\u00fd\u017ei a ku\u0159e, tak aspo\u0148 n\u011bco. Na toaletu n\u00e1s dovedli s omluvou, \u017ee je „a little bit dirty“ – a ano, m\u00edra p\u00e1livosti j\u00eddla a \u0161pinavosti toalety byly zhruba stejn\u00e9 – ale tak to prost\u011b je. Samotn\u00e1 restaurace jinak zase \u010dist\u00e1, v\u0161ichni rukavice, rou\u0161ky, \u010depice. Po j\u00eddle n\u00e1s je\u0161t\u011b po\u017e\u00e1dali o selfie, ve zkratce vysv\u011btlili, \u017ee tu \u017eij\u00ed u\u017e asi dvacet let, proto\u017ee je tu lep\u0161\u00ed byznys ne\u017e v P\u00e1kist\u00e1nu, a \u017ee co vyd\u011blaj\u00ed, to po\u0161lou rodin\u011b, a p\u00e1n, co n\u00e1s obsluhoval, p\u0159i na\u0161em odchodu sp\u00ed\u0161 zdvo\u0159ilostn\u011b poznamenal, \u017ee jestli jsme je\u0161t\u011b nebyli u kasy, a\u0165 nic neplat\u00edme. Cena, mysl\u00edm, 56 SAR.<\/p>\n

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P\u0159\u00edjezd do Janb\u00fa nazna\u010dil, \u017ee se trochu m\u011bn\u00ed prost\u0159ed\u00ed. Pokud se pletu, tak pardon, ale podle m\u011b je Janb\u00fa vylo\u017een\u011b pr\u016fmyslov\u00e9 m\u011bsto. Na jeho za\u010d\u00e1tku je nekone\u010dn\u00e1, ale fakt absolutn\u011b nekone\u010dn\u00e1 rafinerie (\u00fadajn\u011b jsou to hned t\u0159i provozy + v\u00fdroba plat\u016f a dal\u0161\u00ed petrochemick\u00e9 provozy). Po silnic\u00edch tu jezd\u00ed nov\u00e1 SUV, v\u011bt\u0161inou tak\u0159ka bez \u0161kr\u00e1bance. To v D\u017eidd\u011b p\u0159eva\u017eovala ot\u0159\u00edskan\u00e1 a rozt\u0159\u00edskan\u00e1 auta.<\/p>\n

M\u011bsto je naklizen\u00e9, a\u017e se tomu nechce v\u011b\u0159it, samoz\u0159ejm\u011b ne cel\u00e9, ale p\u0159\u00edjezd do m\u011bsta je a\u017e slavnostn\u00ed, silnice lemovan\u00e1 hradbou neprostupn\u00fdch stromoke\u0159\u016f, \u0159adami palem, mezi sm\u011bry barevn\u00e9 kv\u011btiny… V\u00e1\u017en\u011b p\u011bkn\u00e9 a p\u016fsobiv\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed OK, trochu divadlo. S hl\u00edda\u010dem jsem jezdil z patra do patra, co\u017e on st\u00e1le prokl\u00e1dal slovy: „Aaaa, Tomas, hmmm, Tomas.“ Bydlen\u00ed \u010dist\u00e9, hned u hlavn\u00ed silnice.<\/p>\n

Ve\u010der n\u00e1kup, j\u00eddlo jak co, n\u011bco levn\u00e9, n\u011bco drah\u00e9. Mra\u017een\u00e1 Ristorante pizza asi 200 K\u010d, nejoby\u010dejn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed st\u0159edn\u00ed Nescaf\u00e9 250 K\u010d. Ale neplat\u00ed tahle drahota v\u00e1\u017en\u011b pau\u0161\u00e1ln\u011b, d\u00e1 se nakoupit i rozumn\u011b, levn\u011b.<\/p>\n

A te\u010f \u00fater\u00fd. Op\u011bt jsme vyrazili pozd\u011bji, nen\u00ed kam sp\u011bchat. A sm\u011br star\u00e9 m\u011bsto. To jsou dnes v podstat\u011b ruiny. Malink\u00fd no\u010dn\u00ed trh, ten opraven\u00fd a hezk\u00fd.<\/p>\n

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Zam\u00ed\u0159ili jsme do muzea Radwa. To je docela biz\u00e1r. Na ofici\u00e1ln\u00edch str\u00e1nk\u00e1ch Sa\u00fadsk\u00e9 Ar\u00e1bie je pops\u00e1no jako jedno z nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch v kr\u00e1lovstv\u00ed a m\u00e1 j\u00edt o p\u016fvodn\u011b (mo\u017en\u00e1 dodnes, nev\u00edm) soukromou iniciativu m\u00edstn\u00edho sb\u011bratele v\u011bc\u00ed souvisej\u00edc\u00edch s regionem. Je tam \u00fapln\u011b v\u0161echno (nam\u00e1tkov\u011b: vykopan\u00e9 mince, bro\u017ee, telefony Nokia a spol., mo\u0159\u0161t\u00ed \u017eivo\u010dichov\u00e9, star\u00e1 r\u00e1dia, imitace obchodu, \u0161koly, \u0161ic\u00ed d\u00edlny, pasy, sv\u011btov\u00e9 bankovky, sa\u00fadsk\u00e9 pasy), v\u0161echno je absolutn\u011b zapr\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9… Ale vlastn\u011b pro\u010d ne, nav\u00edc jsme dostali datli a kafe a vstup jen za 20 SAR na osobu a Ton\u010da gratis.<\/p>\n

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Dal\u0161\u00ed zast\u00e1vka: D\u016fm Lawrence z Ar\u00e1bie, jak prav\u00ed Wikipedie: „britsk\u00e9ho voj\u00e1ka, cestovatele a arabisty, kter\u00fd se proslavil jako organiz\u00e1tor arabsk\u00e9ho povst\u00e1n\u00ed proti Osmansk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161i v roce 1916“. Podrobn\u011bji t\u0159eba zde<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n

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Pak ob\u00eddek, podle vzez\u0159en\u00ed obsluhy P\u00e1kist\u00e1n, v ryb\u00ed restauraci. U\u017e objedn\u00e1v\u00e1me zku\u0161en\u011b: „This fish, grilled, black rice, water.“ J\u00eddlo op\u011bt ba\u0161ta, nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed na n\u011bm bylo ale asi samotn\u00e9 stolov\u00e1n\u00ed. Jedlo se na koberci na igelitu v jednotliv\u00fdch k\u00f3j\u00edch v pat\u0159e nad kuchyn\u00ed. Pr\u00e1v\u011b ty k\u00f3je zaru\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed soukrom\u00ed jsou tu pr\u00fd docela \u010dast\u00e9, my na n\u011b ale zat\u00edm nenarazili. Nechyb\u00ed ani jak\u00e9si pol\u0161t\u00e1\u0159ky, tak\u017ee si po ob\u011bd\u011b m\u016f\u017eete rovnou trochu d\u00e1chnout.<\/p>\n

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Pak jsme narazili je\u0161t\u011b na dopoledne zav\u0159en\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvnick\u00e9 centrum. A koho nepotk\u00e1me ve vstupu – \u010deskou dvojici trefn\u011b komentuj\u00edc\u00ed situaci slovy: „Oni jsou fakt v\u0161ude.“<\/p>\n

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N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvnick\u00e9 centrum ve zrekonstruovan\u00e9 budov\u011b star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta p\u0159ibli\u017euje historii tohoto m\u00edsta a cel\u00e9ho m\u011bsta. Budova je kr\u00e1sn\u011b opraven\u00e1, ale expozice je de facto jen jeden nekone\u010dn\u00fd text. Popisuje se tam, \u017ee je Janb\u00fa starobyl\u00e9 m\u011bsto slou\u017e\u00edc\u00ed coby p\u0159\u00edstav st\u00e1le jako d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e1 vstupn\u00ed br\u00e1na do zem\u011b pro poutn\u00edky, \u017ee bylo m\u011bsto kdysi opevn\u011bno, \u017ee star\u00e9 domy jsou postaven\u00e9 p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b z „kor\u00e1lov\u00e9ho kamene“ atd. Okol\u00ed je tak\u00e9 \u00fadajn\u011b bohat\u00e9 na povrchov\u00e9 zdroje vody a d\u00edky tomu i relativn\u011b \u00farodn\u00e9. Star\u00e9 m\u011bsto m\u00e1 b\u00fdt \u00fadajn\u011b do p\u00e1r let opraveno, mnohdy ale nen\u00ed co opravovat, jsou to v\u00e1\u017en\u011b trosky. Na z\u00e1v\u011br prohl\u00eddky Marse je\u0161t\u011b st\u0159ihla v\u00fdstup p\u0159ed kamerou v mobilu „pr\u016fvodkyn\u011b“, ve kter\u00e9m tvrdila, jak je to skv\u011bl\u00e9 m\u00edsto a \u017ee se i na\u0161e Ton\u010da bavila. No nev\u00edm. <\/p>\n

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Pokra\u010dujeme. Ze star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta p\u0159ejezd do parku „Yanbu Lake“, kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 odpo\u010dinkov\u00e9 z\u00f3ny se spoustou d\u011btsk\u00fdch prol\u00e9za\u010dek, upraven\u00fdmi tr\u00e1vn\u00edky atd. Takov\u00e1 o\u00e1za klidu – to nen\u00ed my\u0161leno ironicky – ohrani\u010den\u00e1 z jedn\u00e9 strany \u0161estiproudou d\u00e1lnic\u00ed a z druh\u00e9 rafineri\u00ed. Za m\u011b par\u00e1da, i Ton\u010da si to u\u017eila. O tom vypov\u00edd\u00e1 i fakt, \u017ee jsme na h\u0159i\u0161ti str\u00e1vili snad t\u0159i hodiny. Marse byla v oble\u017een\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edch d\u011bt\u00ed, jim\u017e se zal\u00edbila Toni\u010dky v\u00fdbava na p\u00edsek, od kter\u00fdch dost\u00e1vala p\u00edse\u010dn\u00e9 zmrzliny jednu za druhou. Na\u0161e d\u00edtko se dr\u017eelo state\u010dn\u011b a velmi vysp\u011ble se s nimi o hra\u010dky pod\u011blilo. Kdy\u017e jsme za\u010dali sb\u00edrat hra\u010dky p\u0159ed odchodem, Marse jedn\u00e9 hol\u010di\u010dce p\u0159edv\u00e1d\u011bla, \u017ee jdeme sp\u00e1t. Reakce? Ta holka j\u00ed vyprskla sm\u00edchy do obli\u010deje. No jo, tady holt \u017eij\u00ed a\u017e ve\u010der. <\/p>\n

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Pak n\u00e1vrat do star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta na no\u010dn\u00ed trh. To naopak za m\u011b zklam\u00e1n\u00ed, otev\u0159en\u00e1 v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed polovina kr\u00e1mk\u016f a v nich vlastn\u011b nic zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho, ob\u010das a\u017e vietnamsk\u00e1 tr\u017enice. V obch\u016fdku s keramikou p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b v\u00fdrobky z Egypta a P\u00e1kist\u00e1nu. A to jsme se v n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvnick\u00e9m centru do\u010detli, \u017ee tohle m\u011bsto bylo d\u0159\u00edv v\u00fdznamn\u00fdm producentem keramiky a dal\u0161\u00edch rukod\u011bln\u00fdch v\u011bc\u00ed. <\/p>\n

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Na\u0161e snaha sehnat pohledy zat\u00edm vych\u00e1zela napr\u00e1zdno, pr\u00e1v\u011b od no\u010dn\u00edho trhu v Janb\u00fa jsme si hodn\u011b slibovali, ale ani tam nic. Na\u0161li jsme, \u017ee by snad n\u011bco m\u011blo b\u00fdt v knihkupectv\u00ed Jarir. Tam jsme tedy p\u0159ejeli… a usp\u011bli. Nejd\u0159\u00edv sice tvrdili, \u017ee nic takov\u00e9ho nemaj\u00ed, ale t\u0159et\u00ed prodava\u010d se chytil a zavedl n\u00e1s na spr\u00e1vn\u00e9 m\u00edsto. Te\u010f je\u0161t\u011b na po\u0161t\u011b sehnat zn\u00e1mky a v\u0161e poslat.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nebojte, \u017eijeme, akor\u00e1t pond\u011bl\u00ed n\u00e1m zabral p\u0159ejezd z D\u017eiddy do Janb\u00fa, tak si dovol\u00edme pond\u011bl\u00ed a \u00fater\u00fd „odb\u00fdt“ jedn\u00edm p\u0159\u00edsp\u011bvkem. Tak tedy pond\u011bl\u00ed. Sbalili jsme se na ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v D\u017eidd\u011b, dotankovali jsme „91, full“, te\u010f se dr\u017ete, benzin 2,17 SAR za litr. Kr\u00e1t \u0161est, to u\u017e v\u00edme. Brali jsme tak dv\u011b t\u0159etiny n\u00e1dr\u017ee za kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch… <\/p>\n

\u010c\u00edst v\u00edce<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":89,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-80","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nezarazene"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/11\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240220_091514429-scaled.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/80","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=80"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/80\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/89"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=80"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=80"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=80"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}