{"id":126,"date":"2024-02-23T23:48:10","date_gmt":"2024-02-23T22:48:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/?p=126"},"modified":"2024-05-24T18:33:56","modified_gmt":"2024-05-24T16:33:56","slug":"9-al-ula","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/9-al-ula\/","title":{"rendered":"(9) Al-Ula"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dnes jsme si nezvykle p\u0159ivstali, bud\u00edk n\u00e1m zazvonil u\u017e po p\u016fl sedm\u00e9. Na 8:30 jsme toti\u017e m\u011bli zarezervovanou prohl\u00eddku star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta s pr\u016fvodcem. A je\u0161t\u011b jsme museli stihnout sn\u00eddani pod\u00e1vanou od 7:30.<\/p>\n

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Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b jsme to na 8:30 nestihli, ale se zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00edm p\u011bti deseti minut jsme se p\u0159idali. A dokonce jsme nebyli posledn\u00ed. Prohl\u00eddka star\u00e9 al-Uly, jej\u00edmi\u017e uli\u010dkami lid\u00e9 proch\u00e1zeli u\u017e p\u0159ed nejm\u00e9n\u011b sedmi sty lety, byla relativn\u011b kr\u00e1tk\u00e1, ale p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1. Velk\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st m\u011bsta z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 v trosk\u00e1ch, ale \u00fadajn\u011b u\u017e v roce 2035 m\u00e1 b\u00fdt opraven\u00fd ka\u017ed\u00fd jeden d\u016fm a ulicemi se m\u00e1 zase d\u00e1t chodit jako v dob\u011b nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed sl\u00e1vy m\u011bsta. Dnes je opraven\u00e1 jen jedna uli\u010dka klikat\u00edc\u00ed se k pevnosti na vrcholu sk\u00e1ly a \u010deln\u00ed strany budov – jedna oto\u010den\u00e1 k silnici proch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed m\u011bstem, druh\u00e1 lemovan\u00e1 promen\u00e1dou s obch\u016fdky a kav\u00e1rnami.<\/p>\n

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Domy ve star\u00e9 al-Ule byly dvoupodla\u017en\u00ed, prvn\u00ed patro kamenn\u00e9, druh\u00e9 v\u011bt\u0161inou hlin\u011bn\u00e9, a \u0161lo pr\u00fd o domy pro pobyt v zimn\u00edch m\u011bs\u00edc\u00edch. Ty pro pobyt v l\u00e9t\u011b byly v o\u00e1ze opod\u00e1l, kde se choval dobytek a prob\u00edhala zem\u011bd\u011blsk\u00e1 \u010dinnost. To, \u017ee druh\u00e1 patra byla hlin\u011bn\u00e1, pr\u00fd znamenalo, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00fd rok byly domy rekonstruov\u00e1ny. Zapr\u0161\u00ed – a d\u016fm se rozpust\u00ed. Dnes u\u017e ov\u0161em pr\u00fd pokro\u010dil\u00e9 postupy zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed d\u00e9letrvaj\u00edc\u00ed v\u00fdsledky nam\u00e1hav\u00e9 pr\u00e1ce.<\/p>\n

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Z al-Uly jsme se vydali na je\u0161t\u011b jednu dlouhou cestu. Do m\u011bsta Tayma, p\u0159ejezd asi 200 km. Na internetu se mi to z popisu zd\u00e1lo jako super v\u011bc, ale realita byla mnohem prost\u0161\u00ed, a pokud byste to tak\u00e9 zva\u017eovali, asi to za t\u011bch 200 km nestoj\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Ale kdy\u017e u\u017e jsme do Taymy zav\u00edtali, mus\u00edme ji vychv\u00e1lit. Pod\u00edvali jsme se na m\u00edsto, kde se v d\u00e1vn\u00fdch dob\u00e1ch rozprost\u00edralo slan\u00e9 jezero, do m\u00edst, kde st\u00e1ly komplexy budov z na\u010dervenal\u00fdch kamen\u016f (k vid\u011bn\u00ed jsou star\u00e9 n\u00e1pisy v arab\u0161tin\u011b a aramej\u0161tin\u011b) a posl\u00e9ze i ke starod\u00e1vn\u00e9 studni, ve sv\u00e9 dob\u011b snad nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed na sv\u011bt\u011b (pokud n\u00e1hodou ne na sv\u011bt\u011b, tak na Arabsk\u00e9m poloostrov\u011b). Je p\u0159es 60 metr\u016f \u0161irok\u00e1, 13 metr\u016f hlubok\u00e1 a nikdy nevysych\u00e1. Voda se z n\u00ed vytahovala ve vac\u00edch zap\u0159a\u017een\u00fdch na lan\u011b za velbloudy p\u0159es ob\u0159\u00ed d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e1 kola mezi jednotliv\u00fdmi sloupy na jej\u00edm okraji. St\u00e1\u0159\u00ed? Minim\u00e1ln\u011b 2 800 let, mluv\u00ed se i o 3 000 let.<\/p>\n

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Pak klasicky ob\u011bd a zp\u011bt sm\u011br al-Ula, av\u0161ak je\u0161t\u011b se zast\u00e1vkou u Slon\u00ed sk\u00e1ly (Elephant rock). Tam jsme se chv\u00edli pro\u0161li a ud\u011blali jsme n\u011bjak\u00e9 ty nezbytn\u00e9 k\u00fd\u010dovit\u00e9 sn\u00edmky, d\u00e1t si kafe a posed\u011bt bylo kv\u016fli front\u011b u jedin\u00e9ho st\u00e1nku nemysliteln\u00e9. Mimochodem, je to ve\u010der babylon, proudy lid\u00ed, stovky aut…<\/p>\n

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A pak zp\u011bt do kempu.<\/p>\n

A na z\u00e1v\u011br n\u011bjak\u00e9 subjektivn\u00ed dojmy. Al-Ula je na\u0161kroben\u00e1. Je tu miliarda turist\u016f, nejv\u00edc asi z Asie, a ve\u0161ker\u00e9 organizovan\u00e9 akce jsou ud\u011blan\u00e9 tak, aby je bylo mo\u017en\u00e9 popsat jedin\u011b jako „naprosto dokonal\u00e9“.<\/p>\n

Dokonale upraven\u00e9 pr\u016fvodkyn\u011b a pr\u016fvodci, na skupinu deseti lid\u00ed minim\u00e1ln\u011b dva, v\u0161ude security slu\u017eba hl\u00eddaj\u00edc\u00ed i na pr\u00e1zdn\u00fdch silnic\u00edch, aby v\u00e1s nep\u0159ejelo auto, abyste nese\u0161li z cesti\u010dky, 100 metr\u016f se nechod\u00ed, ale v\u00fdhradn\u011b jezd\u00ed golfov\u00fdmi voz\u00edky (ty zdarma pendluj\u00ed i mezi vstupy do star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta a 500 metr\u016f vzd\u00e1len\u00fdmi parkovi\u0161ti na jihu a severu). U ka\u017ed\u00e9ho WC stoj\u00ed ukl\u00edze\u010di a nep\u0159etr\u017eit\u011b v\u0161e vyt\u00edraj\u00ed, ut\u00edraj\u00ed a jinak \u010dist\u00ed. Ulice se neust\u00e1le zametaj\u00ed, v podstat\u011b jdete a za v\u00e1mi se sune ukl\u00edze\u010d s ko\u0161t\u011btem a lopatou a zamet\u00e1 po v\u00e1s lupy nebo n\u011bco.<\/p>\n

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Aktivit je v al-Ule k dispozici nepo\u010d\u00edtan\u011b (zam\u011b\u0159en\u00fdch na historii, z\u00e1\u017eitky, um\u011bn\u00ed…), ale jak jsme psali, co nezarezervujete, na to se nedostanete. Bez pr\u016fvodce ani prd, v\u0161e je oplocen\u00e9, hl\u00eddan\u00e9, organizovan\u00e9. A co nezarezervujete t\u0159eba dva dny dop\u0159edu, to nem\u00e1te, proto\u017ee je tu fakt turist\u016f jak much.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dnes jsme si nezvykle p\u0159ivstali, bud\u00edk n\u00e1m zazvonil u\u017e po p\u016fl sedm\u00e9. Na 8:30 jsme toti\u017e m\u011bli zarezervovanou prohl\u00eddku star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta s pr\u016fvodcem. A je\u0161t\u011b jsme museli stihnout sn\u00eddani pod\u00e1vanou od 7:30. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b jsme to na 8:30 nestihli, ale se zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00edm p\u011bti deseti minut jsme se p\u0159idali. A dokonce jsme nebyli posledn\u00ed. Prohl\u00eddka star\u00e9 al-Uly,… <\/p>\n

\u010c\u00edst v\u00edce<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":139,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-126","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nezarazene"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/11\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240223_060901793-scaled.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/126","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=126"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/126\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/139"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=126"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=126"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/saudska-arabie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=126"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}