{"id":59,"date":"2016-09-02T22:56:33","date_gmt":"2016-09-02T20:56:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/?p=59"},"modified":"2018-03-18T10:42:28","modified_gmt":"2018-03-18T09:42:28","slug":"one-one-seven-takes-you-to-heaven","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/one-one-seven-takes-you-to-heaven\/","title":{"rendered":"(8) One one seven takes you to heaven"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hned na za\u010d\u00e1tek mus\u00edme \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee tenhle p\u0159\u00edsp\u011bvek je vlastn\u011b \u00fapln\u011b zbyte\u010dn\u00fd. To, o \u010dem budeme ps\u00e1t, no\u010dn\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Jemaa el-Fna v Marr\u00e1ke\u0161i, je nepopsateln\u00e9. Nep\u0159eh\u00e1n\u00edme.<\/p>\n

No\u010dn\u00ed Jemaa el-Fna je sm\u011bsic\u00ed v\u016fn\u00ed, zvuk\u016f a barev. U\u017e p\u0159\u00edchod na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed nazna\u010duje, \u017ee tady \u010dlov\u011bk pozn\u00e1 a za\u017eije n\u011bco, co si p\u0159edt\u00edm nedok\u00e1zal ani p\u0159edstavit. Dav lid\u00ed bez za\u010d\u00e1tku a konce proud\u00ed od me\u0161ity Koutoubia na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se sl\u00e9v\u00e1 v z\u00e1\u0159i sv\u011btel tlumen\u00fdch oblaky kou\u0159e z mobiln\u00edch kuchyn\u00ed. \u010c\u00edm bl\u00ed\u017e n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed jste, t\u00edm v\u00edc v\u00e1m t\u011blem proud\u00ed hudba pouli\u010dn\u00edch um\u011blc\u016f a t\u00edm v\u00edc vn\u00edm\u00e1te v\u016fn\u011b linouc\u00ed se ze v\u0161ech stran.<\/p>\n

Jemaa se v noci m\u011bn\u00ed v divadlo pod otev\u0159en\u00fdm nebem, kde hudebn\u00ed \u010d\u00edsla p\u0159ech\u00e1zej\u00ed v p\u0159edstaven\u00ed prodejc\u016f r\u016fzn\u00fdch men\u0161\u00edch i v\u011bt\u0161\u00edch j\u00eddel a kucha\u0159\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed se v\u00e1s sna\u017e\u00ed jeden po druh\u00e9m p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dit, \u017ee jejich st\u00e1nek je ten nejlep\u0161\u00ed ze v\u0161ech a \u017ee zrovna u nich mus\u00edte nechat p\u00e1r dirham\u016f.<\/p>\n

Aby m\u011blo v\u0161e n\u011bjak\u00fd \u0159\u00e1d, jsou st\u00e1nky o\u010d\u00edslovan\u00e9. Kdy\u017e s d\u00edky a omluvou, \u017ee jste p\u0159ed p\u00e1r minutami jedli, odm\u00edtnete, dostane se v\u00e1m odpov\u011bdi: „To nevad\u00ed, p\u0159\u00edteli, m\u016f\u017ee\u0161 p\u0159ij\u00edt klidn\u011b z\u00edtra. Hlavn\u011b si pamatuj, \u017ee m\u00e1m \u010d\u00edslo 117. One one seven takes you to heaven.“ (V p\u0159ekladu: \u010c\u00edslo jedna jedna sedm v\u00e1s dostane do nebe.)<\/p>\n

Je \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9, \u017ee b\u011b\u017en\u00ed Maro\u010dan\u00e9 turisty v\u016fbec ne\u0159e\u0161\u00ed. Nikdo na v\u00e1s nekouk\u00e1, nikdo nem\u00e1 pot\u0159ebu se v\u00e1s dot\u00fdkat (\u010d\u00edm\u017e stra\u0161\u00ed kni\u017en\u00ed pr\u016fvodci) ani v\u00e1s jinak obt\u011b\u017eovat. A pro Jemaa el-Fnu to plat\u00ed dvojn\u00e1sob. Tam jsou zkr\u00e1tka v\u0161ichni herci jednoho velk\u00e9ho souboru a vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed neopakovateln\u00e9 p\u0159edstaven\u00ed. A skv\u011bl\u00e9 na tom je, \u017ee m\u00edstn\u00ed tvo\u0159\u00ed v\u011bt\u0161inu, s p\u0159ehledem.<\/p>\n

J\u00eddlo jsme p\u0159\u00edmo na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed jedli rad\u011bji jen o\u010dima, hygiena tam opravdu moc neexistuje, kdy\u017e si mus\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00fd vysta\u010dit jen s t\u00edm, co si p\u0159iveze na sv\u00e9m voz\u00edku. J\u00e1 ale nakonec zh\u0159e\u0161il. \u0160neci, ta luxusn\u00ed specialita, za kterou nech\u00e1te ve snobsk\u00fdch restaurac\u00edch v \u010cR p\u016flku platu, je tady lah\u016fdkou pro v\u0161echny, kdo maj\u00ed v kapse n\u011bjak\u00fd ten kov\u00e1k. Jednodu\u0161e ne\u0161lo odolat. A byli skv\u011bl\u00ed. V ulit\u011b je nap\u00edchnete na p\u00e1r\u00e1tko a vyt\u00e1hnete. Kdy\u017e p\u0159i\u0161lo na \u0161ne\u010d\u00ed v\u00fdvar, ve kter\u00e9m se ulity serv\u00edruj\u00ed, rozhodl jsem se skon\u010dit. M\u016fj soused u stolu, jeden z n\u011bkolika tis\u00edc m\u00edstn\u00edch, kte\u0159\u00ed si ten ve\u010der n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed u\u017e\u00edvali, se ale tak\u0159ka zd\u011bsil nad t\u00edm, \u017ee si tu nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed delikatesu nech\u00e1m uj\u00edt. „To mus\u00ed\u0161 vyp\u00edt, to je na tom \u00fapln\u011b nejlep\u0161\u00ed. Jen \u0161neci, voda a 35 bylinek,“ \u0159ekl. M\u00edstn\u00ed maj\u00ed pravdu, uk\u00e1zalo se za p\u00e1r vte\u0159in. B\u0159icho je i po dni OK. Jemaa um\u00ed z\u00e1zraky.<\/p>\n

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Zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed kapitolou jsou prodejci \u010derstv\u011b lisovan\u00e9ho pomeran\u010dov\u00e9ho d\u017eusu. Sta\u010d\u00ed o n\u011b jen okem zavadit a spust\u00ed se lavina vol\u00e1n\u00ed a pok\u0159ikov\u00e1n\u00ed. T\u011b\u017eko se d\u00e1 vybrat jeden st\u00e1nek, nakonec v\u00e1m ale nic jin\u00e9ho nezbyde, pokud nechcete prasknout pod n\u00e1porem hektolitr\u016f \u010derstv\u011b vylisovan\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy. Po tom se n\u00e1m bude st\u00fdskat.<\/p>\n

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T\u011bchto p\u00e1r st\u0159\u00edpk\u016f je naprost\u00fd zlomek toho, co v\u0161echno Jemaa je. Jemaa se ned\u00e1 popisovat, Jemaa se mus\u00ed za\u017e\u00edt. I kdy\u017e nem\u00e1te v \u00famyslu u\u017e nic j\u00edst a pro v\u0161echny v\u016fn\u011b, barvy a t\u00f3ny p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1te vn\u00edmat, co se kolem v\u00e1s d\u011bje, n\u011bco v\u00e1s st\u00e1le nut\u00ed d\u00e1l chodit z jedn\u00e9 strany na druhou a nechat se un\u00e1\u0161et atmosf\u00e9rou tohoto tepaj\u00edc\u00edho srdce Marr\u00e1ke\u0161e.<\/p>\n

A na z\u00e1v\u011br je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1r fotek z Marr\u00e1ke\u0161e. Oopravdu moc se n\u00e1m l\u00edbily nap\u0159\u00edklad Saadsk\u00e9 hrobky \u010di br\u00e1na Bab Agnaou.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Hned na za\u010d\u00e1tek mus\u00edme \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee tenhle p\u0159\u00edsp\u011bvek je vlastn\u011b \u00fapln\u011b zbyte\u010dn\u00fd. To, o \u010dem budeme ps\u00e1t, no\u010dn\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Jemaa el-Fna v Marr\u00e1ke\u0161i, je nepopsateln\u00e9. Nep\u0159eh\u00e1n\u00edme. No\u010dn\u00ed Jemaa el-Fna je sm\u011bsic\u00ed v\u016fn\u00ed, zvuk\u016f a barev. U\u017e p\u0159\u00edchod na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed nazna\u010duje, \u017ee tady \u010dlov\u011bk pozn\u00e1 a za\u017eije n\u011bco, co si p\u0159edt\u00edm nedok\u00e1zal ani p\u0159edstavit. Dav lid\u00ed… <\/p>\n

\u010c\u00edst v\u00edce<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":60,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-59","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nezarazene"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2017\/12\/SAM_2641.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p9v9QS-X","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=59"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/60"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=59"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=59"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/maroko\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=59"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}