{"id":129,"date":"2018-07-15T21:04:05","date_gmt":"2018-07-15T19:04:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/?p=129"},"modified":"2018-07-21T20:52:35","modified_gmt":"2018-07-21T18:52:35","slug":"13-u-hrobky-iranskeho-machy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/13-u-hrobky-iranskeho-machy\/","title":{"rendered":"(13) U hrobky \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho M\u00e1chy"},"content":{"rendered":"

Do \u0160\u00edr\u00e1zu jsme se z Esfah\u00e1nu svezli no\u010dn\u00edm autobusem. Vyjet jsme m\u011bli ve 22.30, nakonec jsme ale vyrazili asi o p\u016fl hodiny pozd\u011bji. Autobusy (VIP) jsou tu sice luxusn\u00ed, ale postel je postel. P\u0159es noc pojedeme je\u0161t\u011b ze \u0160\u00edr\u00e1zu do Jazdu a asi tu\u0161\u00edte, \u017ee se moc net\u011b\u0161\u00edme.<\/p>\n

Do \u0160\u00edr\u00e1zu jsme dojeli za sedm hodin. Je\u0161t\u011b rozespal\u00ed jsme si za asistence jednoho taxik\u00e1\u0159e koupili l\u00edstek na autobus pr\u00e1v\u011b do Jazdu, a abychom se probrali, vyrazili jsme na ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed p\u011b\u0161ky. Cesta n\u00e1m zabrala dobr\u00fdch 45 minut.<\/p>\n

Hotel Niayesh je bl\u00edzko v\u0161ech hlavn\u00edch pam\u00e1tek s v\u00fdjimkou hrobky b\u00e1sn\u00edka Hafeze a botanick\u00e9 zahrady Eram. Pr\u00e1v\u011b tato dv\u011b m\u00edsta jsme se rozhodli nav\u0161t\u00edvit b\u011bhem prvn\u00edho dne v \u0160\u00edrazu, abychom pozd\u011bji u\u017e nemuseli vyj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bt z centra.<\/p>\n

Za\u010dali jsme hrobkou b\u00e1sn\u00edka Hafeze. Ten je v\u016fbec nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edm \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00fdm b\u00e1sn\u00edkem a z popisu jeho d\u00edla jsme pochopili, \u017ee z \u010desk\u00fdch autor\u016f je mu asi nejbl\u00ed\u017ee K. H. M\u00e1cha. Hrobka m\u00e1 tvar osmihranu a je postavena uprost\u0159ed udr\u017eovan\u00e9 zahrady jako otev\u0159en\u00fd pavilon, jeho\u017e st\u0159echa chr\u00e1n\u00ed mramorov\u00fd n\u00e1hrobek. Jde o jeden ze symbol\u016f \u0160\u00edrazu, kter\u00e9mu se jinak tak\u00e9 p\u0159ezd\u00edv\u00e1 m\u011bsto r\u016f\u017e\u00ed.<\/p>\n

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Chv\u00edli jsme posed\u011bli i v m\u00edstn\u00ed kav\u00e1rn\u011b, kde jsme se zchladili „zmrzlinou“ faloodeh. Jde o chlazen\u00e9 a\u017e zmrzl\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 tvrd\u0161\u00ed nudli\u010dky zalit\u00e9 sladkokyselou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vou. Typick\u00fd je faloodeh pr\u00e1v\u011b pro \u0160\u00edr\u00e1z, lze jej ale koupit i v dal\u0161\u00edch m\u011bstech. Ur\u010dit\u011b stoj\u00ed za vyzkou\u0161en\u00ed. Je to pom\u011brn\u011b nezvykl\u00e9, ale moc moc dobr\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Snappem jsem se n\u00e1sledn\u011b p\u0159esunuli k botanick\u00e9 zahrad\u011b Eram spravovan\u00e9 \u0161\u00edrazskou univerzitou, jej\u00ed\u017e brutalistn\u00ed budova se majest\u00e1tn\u011b vyp\u00edn\u00e1 na vrcholu nedalek\u00e9ho kopce. Velkou \u010d\u00e1st zahrady zab\u00edraj\u00ed ros\u00e1rium a plant\u00e1\u017e gran\u00e1tov\u00fdch jablek, ka\u017ed\u00fd si zde ale najde sv\u00e9. St\u00edn vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed ob\u0159\u00ed cyp\u0159i\u0161e \u010di palmy vys\u00e1zen\u00e9 u centr\u00e1ln\u00edho pavilonu. V m\u00e9n\u011b ru\u0161n\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti zahrady jsme si jen tak lehli na zem a asi po p\u016fl hodin\u011b jsme zjistili, \u017ee se n\u00e1m ob\u011bma poda\u0159ilo usnout.<\/p>\n

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Marcelka st\u00e1le nebyla ve form\u011b, co v\u00edc, c\u00edtila se mnohem h\u016f\u0159e ne\u017e o den d\u0159\u00edve.<\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e jsme se vraceli do centra, potkal n\u00e1s mu\u017e, kter\u00fd se s n\u00e1mi dal do \u0159e\u010di. P\u0159edstavil se n\u00e1m jako Reza. Kdy\u017e zjistil, \u017ee je Marcelce \u0161patn\u011b od \u017ealudku, nab\u00eddl se, \u017ee n\u00e1s zavede do jak\u00e9si bylink\u00e1rny, kde si m\u016f\u017eeme koupit p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed pr\u00e1\u0161ek na za\u017e\u00edvac\u00ed pot\u00ed\u017ee. Tak se i stalo. Doufejme, \u017ee to zabere.<\/p>\n

Mu\u017e p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 neovl\u00e1dal angli\u010dtinu, zato hovo\u0159il obstojn\u011b n\u011bmecky. P\u0159e\u0161li jsme tedy do n\u011bm\u010diny, na\u010de\u017e se mu\u017e nab\u00eddl, \u017ee n\u00e1s zavede do \u010dist\u00e9 a levn\u00e9 restaurace, kde m\u016f\u017eeme pove\u010de\u0159et. Restaurace, kterou jsme si p\u0159edt\u00edm vyhl\u00e9dli v pr\u016fvodci, toti\u017e byla zav\u0159en\u00e1. Byl opravdu ochotn\u00fd. Pomohl n\u00e1m s objedn\u00e1vkou j\u00eddla i se zabalen\u00edm toho, co Marcelka nezvl\u00e1dla sn\u00edst. Nakonec se nab\u00eddl, \u017ee by n\u00e1m mohl uk\u00e1zat jednu bl\u00edzkou me\u0161itu s medresou.<\/p>\n

Zrovna to r\u00e1no jsme se paradoxn\u011b bavili o tom, \u017ee se st\u00e1le nem\u016f\u017eu zbavit sv\u00e9 podez\u0159\u00edvavosti, \u017ee za ka\u017edou nab\u00eddkou pomoci n\u011bco je. Pr\u00e1v\u011b te\u010f jsem si tedy \u0159ekl, \u017ee svou ned\u016fv\u011b\u0159ivost definitivn\u011b hod\u00edm za hlavu. Jak\u00e1 to chyba.<\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e jsme prohl\u00eddku medresy zakon\u010dili, vypadlo z onoho bodr\u00e9ho mu\u017ee, \u017ee by mu docela bodlo 20 EUR, proto\u017ee m\u00e1 mal\u00e9ho syna a je te\u010f nezam\u011bstnan\u00fd atd. Kdy\u017e jsme mu nazna\u010dili, \u017ee se pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b zbl\u00e1znil, slevil na 12 EUR. Bohu\u017eel jedin\u00e1 rozumn\u00e1 bankovka, kterou jsem m\u011bl v pen\u011b\u017eence, bylo 5 EUR, tak\u017ee jsme se vykoupili za n\u011b. Po\u0159\u00e1d je to na zdej\u0161\u00ed pom\u011bry bal\u00edk.<\/p>\n

Pro v\u0161echny, kdo n\u011bkdy nav\u0161t\u00edv\u00ed \u0160\u00edr\u00e1z:<\/strong><\/span> Jde o mu\u017ee z n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edch fotek. Podle v\u0161eho nejsme jedin\u00ed, na koho tento trik vyt\u00e1hl. Fotky jsme pou\u017eili z tohoto videa<\/strong><\/a>. Nejde ale v \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b o taroof, jak se v tomto videu uv\u00e1d\u00ed, je sprost\u00e1 snaha turisty obrat o pen\u00edze.<\/p>\n

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Do \u0160\u00edr\u00e1zu jsme se z Esfah\u00e1nu svezli no\u010dn\u00edm autobusem. Vyjet jsme m\u011bli ve 22.30, nakonec jsme ale vyrazili asi o p\u016fl hodiny pozd\u011bji. Autobusy (VIP) jsou tu sice luxusn\u00ed, ale postel je postel. P\u0159es noc pojedeme je\u0161t\u011b ze \u0160\u00edr\u00e1zu do Jazdu a asi tu\u0161\u00edte, \u017ee se moc net\u011b\u0161\u00edme. Do \u0160\u00edr\u00e1zu jsme dojeli za sedm hodin…. <\/p>\n

\u010c\u00edst v\u00edce<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":120,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-129","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nezarazene"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2018\/07\/IMG_20180714_095455.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p9L0Rx-25","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=129"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/120"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=129"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=129"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hurazazazitky.cz\/iran\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=129"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}